More Middle East Bread - Taboulle Bread with Zest of Lemon

I am always looking for a new twist on bread. Sometimes it takes me back to my childhood memories, and sometimes to various other places I have lived over the years. Since I've been in a few places it means I always can find something to bring you (even if it sometimes takes a while). I am a real sucker for all the flavors of the Mediterranean Basin, from Spain in the west to Israel and Lebanon in the east. That, of course, includes the culinary giants of the region, Italy (and its various cuisines), and Southern France, including Provence.

What are these flavors? Well, olive oil, of course, lemon, tons of fresh herbs of all kinds, tomatoes in a million different forms at least. Garlic. And hearty grains to hold it all together, or to mop up the juices from all of the above.

So this bread is really a marriage of all the very best that the Mediterranean has to offer. Regular and whole wheat flour, lemon zest, chopped parsley, bulghur wheat, garlic. What could be bad? The dough is a little sticky and so, please handle with care. The aroma it makes while baking is intoxicating... Not to be missed.

Here's What You'll Need:

1 Tbs. olive oil
2 medium cloves of garlic, finely chopped
2 3/4 cups AP flour
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
1/2 Tbs. kosher salt
1 Tbs. instant yeast
1/4 cup bulghur wheat, soaked in 1/2 cup water (for at least 2 hours)
1 bunch of parsley, stems removed and chopped coarsely
1 tsp. lemon zest
1 1/2 cups warm water

Here's What You'll Need To Do:

1. Saute the garlic lightly over medium heat in the the olive oil. When it becomes fragrant, add the parsley. Continue sauteing, until the parsley is just wilted. Remove from the heat.

2. In a separate large bowl, mix the dry ingredients (flours, salt and yeast), thoroughly.

3. Mix the parsley, garlic mixture with the lemon zest, bulghur and water. If the bulghur still has water not absorbed do NOT pour it away. Mix it in.Then add it to the dry mixture. Mix thoroughly.

4. Knead for a few minutes until the dough becomes smooth and shiny. It may be a bit wet, so add small amounts of flour as needed. You might wet your hands to make this easier, too.

5. Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, turn to coat, then cover and let it rise for about 1 1/2 hours until doubled.

6. Turn the dough out onto a bakers peel or a parchment covered cookie sheet. Form into a tight boule, trying hard not to deflate too much. Cover again with oiled plastic wrap, and let it rise for another 45 minutes.

7. About 25 minutes before baking time, preheat the oven to 450F (400F if using turbo function; 220C or 200C if using turbo).

8. Slash the bread before placing in the oven. Bake, with steam, for about 30 minutes until it is a rich golden brown. (Place a small metal tray in the oven under the baking rack. When it is time to bake the bread, pour a cup of boiling water into the pan just after placing the bread. This creates steam which produces the most wonderful crust.) If you are using turbo function, turn it off for the first 10 minutes of baking, so it doesn't remove the steam, them turn it back on for the rest of the baking time.

9. Cool on a rack completely before slicing.

Whole Wheat Buttery Dinner Rolls

It is early on a Sunday afternoon and I am sitting in front of my computer taking a well-needed and well deserved rest. Yesterday was hectic, even though on the weekend you are supposed to slow down a little. I spent most of the day driving to visit some new friends (and then back home, of course). Only then did I discover what seemed like an impossibility - I was out of bread! By then it was late, and, as I said, I was VERY tired. So it was off to bed and a few hours of sleep. This morning, still without bread in the house, I resolved that I had to do something, and fast.

So I turned to an old standby - a recipe you can put together quickly (about 3 hours start to finish) and you will have the most delicious dinner rolls you've ever tasted. Soft, buttery and they can be served while still warm. I have substituted about one third of the AP flour with whole wheat, just to add some fiber, and to intensify the wheaty flavor. But if you want, just use all AP flour. These rolls are guaranteed to pleasepretty much anybody.

Here's What You'll Need:

3 1/4 cups AP flour (or substitute 1 cup with whole wheat)
1 cup warm water
1/4 cup sugar
1 egg
2 Tbs. butter, softened
1 Tbs dry yeast
1 tsp. salt
2 Tbs. butter, melted

Here's What You'll Need To Do:

1. In a large bowl, mix together the flour(s), the sugar, salt and yeast.

2. Lightly beat the egg, mix in the softened butter, then add to the dry ingredients.

3. Add the water, slowly, while mixing by hand. Add just enough to make a slightly sticky dough. If you have used whole wheat flour, it may take just a little more water, as the whole wheat absorbs more.

4. Remove the dough to a lightly floured surface, and knead by folding and stretching, vigorously for at least 5 minutes. Ten is better. The final dough will be slightly sticky and very smooth.

5. Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, turn to coat, then cover and place in a warm spot to rise until doubled. This will take at least 1 1/2 hours.

6. Remove the dough from the bowl to a smooth surface and deflate. Divide the dough into about 10 equal pieces and place on a lined baking sheet. If you want to have softer rolls, place them closer together . Or if you prefer rolls that are just a little crustier, place them so they will not touch after the second rise.

7. Brush the rolls with melted butter, then cover and let the rolls rise for about 30 minutes.

8. About 15 minutes before baking time, preheat the oven to 180 C (350 F).

9. Bake for about 15-17 minutes or until golden brown. If you wish you can brush them with more melted butter when they emerge from the oven and are still warm.

10. Cool on a rack. They can be served while still warm (and are absolutely delicious, with butter, jam, cheese, or really, just about anything!)

Italian Artistry - Ciabatta Stuffed with Onions and Herbs

I don't know if anyone has noticed, but in the bread baking world I have a few heroes. Jeffrey Hamelman, the Master Baker and Instructor from King Arthur Flour is one. His book, simply titled Bread is a classic and when first released in 2004, was instantly hailed as the bread book. It is now into its 2nd edition and this time it is even better. 

Another baking hero of mine is Peter Reinhart, without doubt one of the greatest bread bakers of our time. He has written numerous cookbooks from Brother Juniper's Bread Book through Crust and Crumb and The Bread Baker's Apprentice and all the way to Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Breads. Every one a gem. And if you follow the recipes they will no doubt lead you to better baking. I can almost guarantee it. 

This recipe is a variation on Reinhart's Ciabatta recipe, filling it with caramelized onion and fresh herbs from my garden. You can use just about any herbs but the taste family of oregano, basil, marjoram, thyme or rosemary works best in my opinion. I also varied the shape of the loaves. Instead of the smallish rolls we usually make with this dough, I shaped it into a largish loaf and later sliced it to make incredible sandwiches. Toasted with a little sharp mustard, it is incredible. Like most recipes from Reinhart, this one includes a starter - in this case a poolish, which ferments for a few hours or even overnight. Make the effort with this one, it is definitely worth it.

Here's What You'll Need:

for the starter (poolish):

2 1/2 cups/11.25 oz/320 g bread flour (or AP flour)

1 1/2 to 1 3/4 cups/12 oz/340 ml water

1/4 tsp instant dry yeast

Mix the flour, water and yeast together to make a very thick slurry. It will have the consistency of thick pancake batter. Cover and let it stand, at room temperature for at least 3 or 4 hours, or even overnight. If leaving overnight, after 3 hours place the bowl in the refrigerator.

The next day...

For the dough:

all of the poolish

3 cups/13.5 oz/385 g bread flour (or AP flour)

1 3/4 tsp salt

1 1/2 tsp. instant dry yeast

1/3 to 3/4 cup water at room temperature

for the filling:

2 cups chopped onions

1 cup chopped fresh herbs

1 Tbs. balsamic vinegar

2 Tbs. brown sugar

Using olive oil, saute the onions on a low heat until very soft. Add the brown sugar and the balsamic vinegar and continue stirring until it thickens slightly. Cool completely before using.

Here's What You'll Need To Do:

* If you refrigerated the poolish, remove it at least 1 hour before using it so it comes to room temperature.

1. Mix the flour, salt and yeast together in a large bowl. Then add the poolish and 1/3 cup of water. Mix by hand until it comes together. You may need to add a bit more water up to 3/4 cups. When it forms into a rough ball of dough, remove to a lightly floured surface.

2. Knead the dough, which will be quite sticky and slack using the stretch and fold technique. Flatten the dough into a rough rectangle. Stretch the far side away from you and then on top of the remaining dough. Do the same with the dough closest to you so it is folded like a letter. Rotate the dough 90 degrees and repeat.

3. Lightly spray the dough with oil, cover and let it rest for 30 minutes. Repeat this process 3 times, at 30 minute intervals, each time folding and stretching.

*The last time you stretch and fold the dough, shape it into a rough rectangle then spread the onion mixture over the surface. Stretch and fold the dough with the onions now incorporated into the dough.

4. Finally cut the dough into loaf size pieces (or rolls) and roll gently in flour. Try not to deflate the dough. Place the shaped dough (either rolls or loaves) on a lined baking sheet, cover and let it rest and rise. The dough will puff up but probably not double.

5. Preheat the oven to 450 F/220 C. Bake the bread, with steam*, for about 20 minutes (rolls) or 30-35 minutes for loaves. 

6. Cool completely on a rack before slicing. If you can.

*Place a small tray in the oven while you preheat. Just before placing the dough in the oven, pour about 1 cup boiling water into the tray and close the door quickly. This will create a steamy atmosphere and help make the crust crunchy and chewy (and delicious, of course).

Down at the Pub - English Beer Bread

Bread is one of the main players in the food game I call Controlled Fermentation. By that I mean that there certain classes of foods that we all enjoy, everywhere in the world, that are the result of manipulating the conditions of fermenting the basic ingredients. Beer is another. So is cheese. So when you combine beer (made with brewer's yeast) and bread (made with baker's yeast) you know it's got to be great!

Across Europe, especially Northern and Eastern Europe, where beer is king, there are many variations of this bread. The beer adds a wonderful earthy flavor (but no alcohol since it evaporates in the oven), and combined with the whole wheat flour makes for a bread that is both healthy and delicious. This recipe is an English variety, but, there are many, many more from Ireland east all the way to Russia. Enjoy!

Here's What You'll Need:
9 oz/250 g whole wheat flour
9 oz/250 g AP or bread flour
1 Tbs. salt
1 Tbs. dry yeast
2 Tbs. butter
10 oz/300 ml good beer

Here's What You'll Need To Do:
1. Mix all the ingredients into a large bowl and combine by hand until all the flour is absorbed.

2. Remove the still rough dough to a lightly-floured surface and knead vigorously for about 5 minutes until the dough is smooth and only very slightly tacky. Place the dough back into the bowl, covered, and let it rest for about and hour.

3. Form the dough into a ball, then flatten slightly by hand. After placing the dough on a lined baking tray, slash the dough diagonally. Cover it loosely with plastic and let it rise for about 1 hour.

4. Preheat the oven to 400 F/200 C. Bake the bread for about 30 minutes until it is a deep golden brown. Cool on a rack.

5. Serve this bread with a good sharp cheddar or other sharp cheese, fresh veggies, and, of course, cold beer.

Maneesh - Middle Eastern Flatbread with Seeds and Herbs

Over the years, I have written a lot about breads from different parts of the world. And in different areas there  are 'styles' which are typical for that place. Many times the kind of bread is pretty much determined by geography and climate. So, for instance, in Eastern Europe, with its long. cold winters and short, hot summers, the breads include lots of rye flour, since it grows in that relatively harsh climate. The breads tend to be heavier, denser affairs, sometimes with dried fruit or imported spiced to 'liven' them up a bit.

Another example might be the breads of Asia. I know, Asia is huge. In fact it is the hugest. But in terms of bread, almost all breads from this massive continent are flat breads. Even breads using yeast tend to be fairly flat. In fact, the first breads are likely Asian, baked on a hot stone or in a stone oven. Maneesh is no exception. Originating in the Middle East, and super popular in Israel, Jordan and Lebanon, this bread is typically baked in a stone oven slathered with olive oil and covered with sesame seeds and za'atar (hyssop). You can find it in any open market and it is definitely street food. For very little money, you can buy one and gobble it up while doing your weekly market shopping! The za'atar, btw, is a native herb closely related to the oregano, thyme, basil, rosemary, marjoram family of herbs in terms of flavor. If you can't find it, at a Middle Eastern or Greek grocery, any or all of the these can easily substitute.

Here's What You'll Need:

• 500g/1lb 2oz AP flour or bread flour, plus extra for dusting
• 10g/¼oz salt
• 25g/1oz powdered sugar
• 10g/¼oz instant yeast
• 20ml/4 tsp olive oil, plus extra for kneading
• 360ml/12fl oz tepid water
  
  
  Also for the topping:
  about 1/3 cup toasted sesame seeds
  about 1/3 cup chopped fresh herbs or 3-4 Tbs. dry herbs (za'atar or other Mediterranean herbs)
  olive oil
  
  
  Here's What You'll Need To Do:
  1. Mix together the flour, yeast salt and sugar. Then add in the olive oil. Gradually add the water (you may not need all of it) mixing by hand to form a soft, not sticky, dough.
  
  
  
  2. Spread a little olive oil on the tabletop, then remove the dough and knead it on the oiled surface. It will be shaggy at first, but after 5 to 10 minutes will become very smooth and supple. Place the kneaded dough into a lightly oiled bowl, covered, to rise until doubled, about 1 1/2 hours.
  
  
  3. Remove the dough from the bowl, punch down to remove the air, then divide into 3 fairly equal pieces. Stretch the dough, using your fingers, into a rough circle, then cover with plastic to rest about 25 minutes. The dough will puff up but not double.
  
  
  
  4. Preheat the oven to 450 F (220 C). 'Dimple' the dough with your fingers carefully so as not to deflate too much, then brush the top with a paste made from the remaining oil and herbs. Bake for about 20 minutes or until a deep golden brown and the bread sounds hollow. The bottom should be deep brown and crispy as well. B'tayavon - Bon Appetit (in Hebrew)!
  
  
  
  
  

Basis Artisan Bread - An English Bloomer

I have to admit that I came across this bread quite by accident. I was doing something I do a lot. I mean, I DO THIS A LOT! Search for recipes, especially for bread. Only recently I found a recipe for a 'tartine-like' bread a la Chad Robertson. Not his recipe, but apparently close enough. I will need a bit more time to get up the courage to try this bread. In the meantime, with my 'research' I found this bread. An English bloomer, so-called because it expands on the slash lines as it bakes and so it 'blooms'.

As you can see by my latest offerings, I have entered a 'European' phase with breads and this one fits perfectly. It's origin is England. It is a peasant bread with a slightly chewy crust and a soft moist crumb. Very stable, not at all crumbly and so it makes great sandwiches and even better toast. Yum!

Here's What You'll Need:

• 500g/1lb 2oz strong white flour, plus extra for kneading
• 10g/¼oz salt
• 1 x 7g package of instant yeast
• 320ml/11½oz cold water
• 40ml/1½fl oz olive oil, plus extra for kneading
• extra oil and flour, for kneading
  
  
  Here's What You'll Need To Do:
  
  
  1. Mix together the flour, yeast and salt in a large bowl. Add the olive oil, then slowly, while mixing by hand, add the water. You may not need all of it. Mix just until you have a shaggy dough. It will be sticky.
  
  
  2. Remove the dough to a lightly-oiled surface (OLIVE OIL, PLEASE) and knead vigorously for 8-10 minutes. The dough will slowly become smooth and elastic.
  
  
  
  3. Place the kneaded dough in a lightly-oiled bowl, turn to coat, then cover to rise until at least doubled. This could be up to 2 hours.
  
  
  4. Remove the dough from the bowl, punch down to remove the air, then shape into a tight 'torpedo shape. Spray with oil, lightly, then cover to rest and rise again, this time for about 45 minutes, until half again its original size.
  
  
  5. Preheat the oven to 400F/190C. Just before baking, spray the loaf with water. Sprinkle some flour over the top. Then slash the bread 3 or 4 times. 
  
  
  
  6. Bake with steam for 30 minutes. Then lower the heat to 350F/180C and continue baking for another 10 minutes. The bread is done when it sounds hollow when it's tapped on the bottom.
  
  
  7. Cool on a rack.
  
  
  
  
  

Another European Classic - Pain aux Noix (French Nut Bread)

Sometimes you can just look at a bread, and know, before you even taste it, where it comes from. This is one of those breads. It is a dark brown in color, and with a soft, almost crumbly crumb. The crust is crunchy, and well...crusty. The best part of it is that the nuts of various kinds, chopped coarsely, are mixed into the dough and then baked together. Traditionally, this bread is made with hazelnuts, but truthfully, can be made with any kind, almonds, walnuts or even a mixture. If you want to give an American twist to a Eurpean bread, use pecans. Any way you slice it (pun intended) this bread won't disappoint. It fills the whole house with the most incredible aroma. And after it's baked, if you toast it, it does it again. This bread is also very versatile: the nuts make it perfect for a breakfast bread, but it works just great with smoked meats and mustard too. Please try this bread... you won't be disappointed. BTW, this recipe is adapted from one of my favorite bread baking books of all time, TheBread Bible by Beth Hensperger. A truly remarkable collection of bread recipes containing everything from traditional European breads like this one, to modern quick breads. It's all here and a book well worth adding to your collection.

Here's What You'll Need: (for 2 round loaves)

2 1/2 cups hazelnuts, roughly chopped skinned and lightly toasted (or other nuts)

2 1/2 cups whole wheat flour

1 1/4 cups warm water

2 Tbs. dry yeast

1/4 cup packed brown sugar

1 cup warm milk (or water, or unflavored soy milk for non-dairy)

1/2 cup walnut oil (or hazelnut oil)

2 1/2 tsp. salt

about 3 cups AP flour

Here's What You'll Need To Do:

1. Combine about 1 1/4 cups of the nuts with about 1 cup of the whole wheat flour. Mix well to coat the nuts completely. Grind to a rough (not flour-like) consistency in a food processor and set aside.

2. Sprinkle the yeast over 1/4 cup the warm water with a pinch of brown sugar dissolved in. Let it stand for about 10 minutes to activate the yeast.

3. In a large bowl, combine the remaining water, the milk (or soy if using), oil, sugar and salt. Pulse to mix, then add the yeast mixture. Finally add in the nut and whole wheat mixture as well.

4. Add the remaining shole wheat flour and mix to form a soft fairly sticky dough. Then add in the AP flour, 1/2 cup at a time until the dough 'cleans the bowl' but remains soft and elastic. It will be just slightly tacky, and will not stick to your fingers.

5. Knead the dough for about 10 minutes to develop the gluten, then place it in a lightly-oiled bowl, turn to coat, and cover. The dough should rise until doubled, about 2 hours.

6. Divide the dough into 2 equal pieces and shape each piece into a round, tightening the surface as you shape it. Lightly spray some oil on the dough balls, and cover with plastic wrap to rest. This will take about 45 minutes.

7. About 20 minutes before baking time, pre-heat the oven to 375 F (190 C). Use a baking stone, if you have one. Just before baking slash the bread with 3 or 4 cuts about 1/4 inch (3mm) deep. Spray water into the oven and pour boiling water into a steaming pan to create a wet environment.

8. Bake for about 45 minutes or until it sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom. Cool on a rack.