Back to Basics - Irish Soda Bread (as scones)

One of the really great features of my home town in Nova Scotia, is its multicultural aspect. You wouldn't normally think that this would be true. I come from a very small town (today maybe 25K residents) in a remote corner of a remote island in Canada. And Nova Scotia means New Scotland! So you wouldn't normally believe that there would be so many people from so many cultural backgrounds. But, with all that, there are people there, with a Scottish background (of course), but also, Italians, Jews, Ukrainians and Poles, Russians and Italians and Irish as well.

 I haven't baked bread while reminiscing in a while. Just the other day I was thinking about 'the old country', and that started me thinking about Irish soda bread. This bread is an iconic Irish food. I have actually thought about baking it for years and never done so. This is because I had some irrational idea that it was long and complicated and, besides, it uses no yeast. What kind of bread uses no yeast? Only recently I read a recipe, saw how easy it is, and decided to go for it. I AM going to bake this bread. So... it is NOT complicated at all. One-half hour from start to finish. And delicious. I have made this bread in the form of scones (triangular wedges). But, unlike scones, this bread is made with low-fat buttermilk (1.5% fat) so there is NO guilt in eating several in one sitting. Which is what you'll do when you make these. Well, maybe just a little, but how can you resist?

 Here's What You'll Need: 
 3 cups flour (you can substitute some whole wheat for the AP flour - I used 1/2 cup ww flour and 2 1/2 cups AP flour)
1 Tbs. sugar 1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. baking powder
1 1/2 cups cold buttermilk


 Here's What You'll Need To Do: 

 1. Preheat the oven to 450F (about 220C).

 2. Place all the dry ingredients in a large bowl and mix to combine thoroughly.

 3. Make a well in the center, then pour in the buttermilk. Stir to combine and to make a soft, slightly sticky dough. DO NOT OVERMIX. (This develops the gluten in the flour and makes the scones chewy like bread - not crumbly like a good scone).

 4. Remove the dough to a lightly floured surface, and knead only a few times to smooth the dough, then form into a disc about 7in (18cm) in diameter. Cut the disc into 6 or 8 wedges then place them on a parchment covered baking sheet.

 5. Bake for about 20 minutes until lightly browned top and bottom.

6. Cool on a rack.*

 * These scones taste great while still warm and smothered with butter and/or jam.

Old-Fashioned Oatmeal Bread - The First Kind

As you all must know by now, I like to experiment with bread recipes. I also like to attempt vintage recipes and to bake breads that are standards from all over the world. And so, I approached this bread from England with an expectation of something special, since it is so well-known there. In reading about oatmeal bread I soon discovered that there are two distinct types. In this version, I will use rolled oats mixed directly into the dough. In another version, which takes about 2 days to make, the oats are cooked first, literally made into oatmeal breakfast cereal, then the next day added in to the dough. I will make the other version at another time. This version, however, produced a loaf with a close crumb and a very crunchy (and satisfying) crust. I have been eating it for the last 3 days (it keeps well!) with pastrami and Dijon mustard. Also, just plain toasted with peanut butter spread all over. It is delicious, and especially so, if you like crispy exteriors with soft interiors. A keeper.

Here's What You'll Need:
2 tsp dry yeast
1 1/2 cups warm water
2 cups whole wheat flour
1 1/2 cups medium oatmeal
1 1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp honey
rolled oats for decoration

Here's What You'll Need to Do:
1. Mix the yeast into 1/2 cup of the water and let it stand to activate for about 5 minutes.

2. Mix the flours, the oatmeal and the salt in a large bowl. Make a well in the center and pour in the yeast mixture. Pour about half the remaining water into the bowl and start to mix, adding just enough water to make a smooth and slightly sticky dough. This dough will be stiff!

3. Remove the dough from the bowl to a lightly-floured surface and knead until smooth, about 10 minutes.

4. Put the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, turn to coat, then cover and let it rise until doubled, about 2 hours.

5. Deflate the dough and let it rest for 10 minutes. Then, form it into a loaf and place it in a 8 1/2 in X 4 1/2 in (22 cm X 11 cm) loaf pan. Cover and let it rise until it just goes over the lip of the pan.

6. Heat the oven to 400 F (200 C). Brush the loaf lightly with water and sprinkle oats over the top.

7. Bake for about 40 minutes or until golden brown and it sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom.

8. Cool on a rack.

Pane Con Pomodori e Cipolle Rosse - Tomato and Red Onion Bread

I love Italian bread. It's a fact. I think what I love the most is the simplicity that leads to sophistication that I find in the best Italian breads. For example, the most popular breads have only four ingredients: flour, water yeast and salt. There are some Tuscan breads that even leave out the salt, depending on the thick stew served with the bread to provide the flavor when you sop it up. How simple is that? So... where does the flavor come from? From the rise, which, if you do it right, should be slow and at cool temperatures. Like in the fridge.

This bread is a variation of a peasant loaf that comes from Calabria in Southern Italy. There, they like food spicy and the tomatoes are firm and packed with flavor. The combination of a slow-rising dough, with tomatoes and red onions and just a pinch of red pepper flakes makes for a bread that is strong on character and perfect for smoked meats and cheeses. Or just toasted with butter or some other spread like humus, mustard (under the toppings) or a good quality mayonnaise (ditto).

Here's What You'll Need: (for 1 large loaf)
3 1/2 tsp. dry yeast
2/3 (167 ml)cups warm water
4 cups (560 g) bread flour
2 tsp. salt
1 lb (450 g) ripe tomatoes
1 Tbs. olive oil
2 red onions, finely sliced
3 tsp. chopped fresh oregano
1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

Here's What You'll Need To Do:
1. Dissolve the yeast in the warm water and set aside to activate, about 10 minutes.

2. Mix the flour and salt in a separate large bowl, make a well in the center and add in the dissolved yeast. Mix in just enough flour from the sides to make a slurry, then cover and let it rest to create a 'sponge' for about an hour.

3. In the meantime, peel the tomatoes and remove the seeds. Chop just the flesh of the tomatoes roughly and set aside. Peel and finely slice the onions.

4. Heat the olive oil in a pan then add the onions and oregano and pepper flakes. Finally, add the tomatoes and saute gently, covered for about 10 minutes. This will allow the juices to come out of the tomatoes and create a thick sauce. Cool this mixture completely before continuing.

5. Stir the tomato mixture into the sponge, and mix thoroughly to make a soft slightly sticky dough. The tomatoes are wet, and you may need to add a little flour to keep the dough manageable, i.e., only slightly sticky.

6. Knead for a few minutes to bring it together and evenly distribute the tomato mixture, then form it into a ball and place it in a lightly-oiled bowl (turn to coat) and cover to let it rise. Let it double in volume. This will take about 2 hours. If you want to greatly improve the flavor, you can place the dough in the refrigerator overnight like I did. Amazing!

7. If you placed to dough in the refrigerator, remove it, and, leaving it covered, let it come to room temperature, about 2 hours. 'Knock down' the dough, and form it into a tight boule. Place it on a baking sheet covered with baking paper, covered with a kitchen towel to rise again, about 1 hour.

8. Bake in a pre-heated oven (350 F; 180 C) for about 45 minutes or until it sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom. Cool on a rack completely before slicing.

The Absolute Easiest Bread Ever - No-Knead White Bread That Fits Your Schedule

Back in 2006, Mark Bittman, the food editor at the NY Times,  published an article
describing a clever method developed by Jim Lahey for baking incredible tasting French bread in a Dutch oven pot that didn't require any kneading at all. None. He later went on to publish a whole series of cookbooks, all wonderfully comprehensive and very modestly titled. Here are a few examples: The Food Matters Cookbook, How To Cook Everything, How To Cook Everything Vegetarian and more.You get the idea.  Every one a delight to read, clear and simple. The idea was so simple and yet produced the most incredible bread! Not only that, it seemed to go in the face of everything we had learned about bread making. Long, slow rises, wet dough and NO KNEADING at all. The reaction was instantaneous. Luminaries in the bread world started experimenting with this method and publishing their own variations. For instance, Peter Reinhart, in his now classic, The Bread Baker's Apprentice champions this method extensively. And again in his later book Whole Grains Breads. Nancy Baggett has produced a whole cookbook dedicated to baking using this method (or rather, her variation of the original) in her great book Kneadlessly Simple: Fabulous, Fuss-Free, No-Knead Breads. This recipe is my take on a recipe from her book. It is so simple, and the best part, is that you can delay the baking with the looong rises, so that it fits your schedule. Try it. I am sure you'll love it.

Here's What You'll Need:
6 1/2 cups AP flour (or bread flour)
3 1/2 Tbs sugar
1 Tbs salt
1 tsp dry yeast
1/3 cup vegetable oil
2 3/4 cups ice water (yes, that's right - ice water)

Here's What You'll Need to Do:
1. Use a very large bowl because the dough will have to practically quadruple its volume. In this bowl combine the dry ingredients - the flour, salt, sugar and yeast. In a separate bowl (or measuring cup) mix the oil and water together as much as possible. Then place ice cubes in the cup to chill the water.

2. Finally, make a well in the dry ingredients, and add 2 3/4 cups ice water to the bowl. Mix with a wooden spoon to form a dough that is evenly mixed. DO NOT KNEAD.

3. Form the dough into a rough boule, then spray lightly with spray oil. Cover with plastic (I placed mine in a plastic bag) and let it stand, at room temperature, for 3-10 hours (not a typo).

4. Place the still-covered dough in the refrigerator to rise slowly for 10-15 hours (overnight, basically).

5. The next day, divide the dough into 2 equal parts, and place it into two 9 in (23 cm) loaf pans. Let the dough rise, at room temperature and covered, until it reaches about 1/2 in (3 mm) above the rim of the pan.

6. About 20 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 425 F (210 C). Place the bread in the oven, and reduce the temperature to 400 F (200 C). Bake for about 45 minutes until the bread is browned nicely and crisp. Cool on a rack completely before slicing.

Yum!!!

Whole Wheat Bran Bread

As you might imagine, I read a lot of recipes for breads of all kinds. I mean, a LOT of recipes for bread. I have lots of cookbooks (maybe a couple of hundred) and even more pdf's of even more. Maybe thousands. I'm not kidding. And I'm always looking for another angle on bread making. I mean, when you get right down to it, there must be an infinite number of variations on bread starting with the basic 4 (flour, water, salt, yeast) and on from there adding sweeteners, and oils and dried fruit and nuts and seeds and... You see, the list is long. So, it is always comforting to me, after reading a lot of complicated and involved recipes, to come back to something basic, but still delicious and, of course, healthy.

This recipe is a variation of one I have used for a long time. It uses regular bread flour (or AP flour) in combination with whole wheat and rye. In addition, there is a substantial amount of bran which adds flavor, texture and fiber. All good things. You really should try this bread, Not only does it taste great, but it also is good for you. Oh, and one more thing. It keeps for several days at room temperature and makes incredible toast. TRY IT! You won't regret it.

Here's What You'll Need:
3/4 C whole wheat flour
1/2 C whole rye flour
1 C bread flour (or AP flour)
3 Tbs. gluten
1 1/2 tsp salt
1 1/2 C wheat bran
1 Tbs. brown sugar or demerrara sugar
1 Tbs. dry yeast
1 3/4 C warm water

Here's What You'll Need To Do:

1. Sift the flours with the gluten into a large bowl. Add the salt and stir to mix evenly. Add the bran, the sugar and the yeast and mix evenly.

2. Slowly add about 3/4 of the water while mixing. Continue add ing the water as needed, to form a shaggy dough. Remove the dough to a lightly floured surface and knead gently for a few minutes adding flour or water as necessary. The dough will remain a little sticky. Do not add too much flour to 'dry out the dough'. This will only make the dough too hard and dry in the end. Resist temptation.

3. Place the still sticky dough in a lightly oiled bowl, lightly covered with flour sprinkled over, turn to coat, then cover and let it rise until doubled. About 2 hours.

4. Form the dough into a tight boule or a loaf in a 23X13cm (9X5in) loaf pan. Cover and let the dough rise again until it rises over the edge of the pan (or becomes quite puffy as a boule).

5. About 20 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 350F (180C). Bake the bread for about 45 minutes or until the crust is quite crisp, and the loaf sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom.

6. Cool on a rrack completely before slicing (if you can wait)!

Chobz - Moroccan White Bread

No doubt you have all noticed that I have been baking a lot of bread from the Mediterranean lately. Specifically bread from the Eastern Mediterranean. Specifically Greece. So I figured it's time to move on to a different location. But try as I might, I still find myself in this region, only I have moved to the other side completely. For quite a while now I have been following a food blogger from Morocco named Alia and  her blog Cooking with Alia. She also has a presence on YouTube. Not only are her recipes generally very tasty and attractive but her presentation is straightforward and a real delight.

Chobz is a simple bread, probably used for mopping up the wonderful sauces from Moroccan tagines and other delicacies. From start to finish it takes about 2 hours and includes only very basic ingredients - AP flour, yeast, only a little oil, salt and sugar. No eggs. The final product is thick and rich like a white sandwich bread, but with a pocket like a pita! After baking I had to immediately cut one open and stuff it with chicken. Yum!

Here's What You'll Need:
3 cups AP flour
1/2 Tbs dry yeast
1/2 Tbs sugar
a little warm water (to activate the yeast)
2 Tbs vegetable oil
1 tsp salt
1/2 Tbs sugar
enough water to make a soft barely sticky dough

Here's What You'll Need to Do:
1. Mix the yeast and 1/2 Tbs sugar in a small bowl, then add a small amount of water and stir. Set aside for about 5 minutes to activate the yeast.

2. In a large bowl, place the flour, the salt and the rest of the sugar. Add the yeast mixture and the oil. Finally, add the water, a little at a time, mixing all the while until a shaggy dough forms.  Knead the dough for about 10 minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic. Cover and let the dough rest for about 10 minutes.

3. Cut the dough into 4 equal pieces and roll each into a round ball. Cover and let them rest for another 10 minutes.

4. Roll out each ball of dough into a round disc, about 12cm (5in) in diameter. Cover and let these discs rise, slowly, for around 1 1/2 hours, or even 2 hours. They will be puffy but not doubled.

5. Preheat the oven to 200C (400F). A hot oven. Place the chobz in the heated oven and bake for around 12-14 minutes. About halfway through turn the breads over. They will puff up, like a pita (but not as much as a pita) and get very brown. Cool on a rack and then stuff with your favorite fillings. Yummo!!

Daktyla - Greek Village Bread

You have probably noticed that lately I have been baking a lot of bread from Greece. This is partly because I have a really strong connection with all things Mediterranean. And especially from the Eastern end of the Mediterranean, like Israel and the Levant, Turkey and yes, Greece. Another reason is the developing plans I am making for a culinary tour of Crete this summer. Mornings with yoga on the beach. Afternoons visiting local farmer's markets, oil presses, dairies, vineyards, you name it. Hearing stories, talking with locals and picking up supplies along the way. Back to the hotel for some cooking/baking workshops in Mediterranean-style vegetarian food. Evenings around a big table with great food we prepared ourselves, good wine great company. Personally, I can't wait. Just thinking about it, in cold February makes me a little antsy.

So... this is one of my test recipes for the summer workshops. This sesame-coated bread is traditionally made with 'yellow' or country flour, which is a blend of AP flour mixed with whole wheat and finely ground cornmeal. You could make it with just bread flour, but then you won't have the wonderful texture from the cornmeal. In Greece this bread is called 'Daktyla', or fingers. It is a tear apart bread, broken into fingers when eaten. It is particularly good spread with a soft yogurt cheese.

Here's What You'll Need:

2 tsp. dry yeast
1 1/2 cups warm water
2 1/2  cups bread flour
2/3 cups whole wheat flour
1/2 cup fine cornmeal
1 tsp. salt
1 Tbs. olive oil
1 Tbs. honey
1 Tbs. milk (or soy milk) , plus extra to glaze
sesame seeds to decorate

Here's What You'll Need to Do:

1. Sprinkle the yeast into 1/2 cup of the water in a bowl. Let sit for 5 minutes; stir to dissolve. Mix the flours, cornmeal and salt. Make a well in the center and pour in the dissolved yeast.

2. Use a wooden spoon to draw enough of the flour into the dissolved yeat to form a paste. Cover the bowl with a dish towel and let the sponge sit to become frothy and slightly risen, about 20 minutes. Add the oil, honey and milk to the sponge.

3. Pour about half of the water into the well. Mix in the flour. Stir in the reserved water, as needed, to form a firm, moist dough.

4. Turn the dough out onto a lightly-floured work surface. Knead until smooth, shiny and elastic, about 10 minutes.

5. Put the dough in a clean bowl and cover with a dish towel. Let rise until doubled, about 1 1/2 hours. Punch down, then let rest for about 10 minutes.

6. Divide the dough into 6 equal pieces. Shape each piece into an oblong (like a finger); arrange them in a row, just touching, on a floured baking sheet. Cover with a dish towel and proof until doubled in size, about an hour.

7. Brush the top of the loaf with milk (or soy milk) and sprinkle with the sesame seeds.

 

8. Bake in a preheated oven (350F/180C), for 45 minutes, until hollow sounding when tapped on the bottom. Cool on a rack.